Showing posts with label Fashion News. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fashion News. Show all posts

Monday, 20 May 2013

The State of the Nigerian Textile Industry

The state of the textile industry in Africa is truly disheartening. In Nigeria alone, over 776,000 jobs have been lost within the last decade.

According to Dr Samuel Ortom Minister of State for Trade and Investment, "Nigeria once had a very vibrant textile and garment sub-sector with fixed investment of $4bn second only to South Africa, in sub-Saharan Africa, and was third largest in Africa....it also had 63 percent capacity of textile manufacturing in West Africa and controlled 60 per cent of the textile market in Nigeria. Within the same period, the sub-sector had 175 fully functional mills that employed over 800,000 people"

With countries like the USA offering trade incentives, such as the African Growth and Opportunities Act (AGOA), one would think this would stimulate and encourage stakeholders within the industry to maximise cross border trade partnerships and save the flailing industry.

Alas. That is not the case. Although many countries within Africa have benefited greatly from AGOA and other such trade levies, this has not been the case in West African countries, specifically with respect to the textiles/garment apparel industry. This is due to various reasons - influx of foreign textiles into the market being the largest one of all.

Another reason was recently highlighted by the Financial Times, UK which cited a paper from the Centre for the Study of African Economies suggesting that savvy Chinese companies have set up shop in Africa as a route to get their products into the USA, with the added incentive of all the juicy AGOA benefits.

My Asho encourages all its designers to produce their products ethically and to work towards creating employment across Africa, stimulating local economies, supporting women in the workplace. We understand that it is tempting to outsource production but in the long run, we will only further damage the African economy and make things so much more difficult for ourselves. 

To our customers and visitors to our site, it is not easy. We cannot emphasize the amount of hard work that goes into designing, producing and marketing each and every item sold on our Site. These products are made either by the designers themselves, or the small teams they work with. We are not Primark or Walmart, so please don't compare our costs. Instead, perhaps think of the story behind each product, the lives you affect by purchasing from each designer. We truly are trying to create sustainable businesses across Africa - we are very small but we have big hopes.

Sources:




Wednesday, 6 March 2013

Saturday Collection Service - London



My Asho will be trialing a Saturday collection service from a location in Notting Hill, London. If you've visited our previous pop up events, you should be familiar with the location 47 Pembridge Road, Notting Hill, W11 3HG. 

The Saturday collection service will allow you to try on clothes (in different sizes/colourways for example), view items you are interested in purchasing, and ask us general questions about our products and services in person.

To use this service, you would need to place an order on My Asho and select delivery option "Saturday pick up". If you are interested in trying on additional items other than those which you have purchased, simply state the items in the comments/special instructions box during checkout or email us once your order has been placed.

We look forward to seeing our London based/visiting customers on Saturdays! x

Sunday, 3 February 2013

Christie Brown Resort Collection 2013

Last year, Christie Brown showed a capsule collection for Ghana Fashion and Design week. The 'To Dye For' collection is flirty, playful yet elegant.

The collection embodies the ideas of collaboration as it features gorgeous 'irreplicable' batiks created by Grace of Grazia fabrics in partnership with Christie Brown. We think this is a match made in heaven. What do you think?









Look 8 is a personal favourite, which one is yours?



Thursday, 6 September 2012

African Icons at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York 2012




ARISE magazine has partnered with Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week and this year five of the designers that participated earlier this year in Arise Magazine Fashion Week Lagos have been chosen to showcase their work in New York. The designers are:

Ozwald Boateng OBE
Gavin Rajah
Tiffany Amber
Tsemaye Binitie
Maki-Oh

The theme is African Icons and will be held on September 6 2012 at 3pm at Lincoln Center. 

For more information:
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week website

Tuesday, 3 July 2012

Stop Press: Bestow Elan in Grazia




One of our very own My Asho designers has been featured in Grazia magazine (June 2012). This gorgeous top is the Kra Kra Flyaway top by Bestow Elan. The gorgeous pleated neck detail and beautiful green print make for a top that can be worn in so many ways.

Browse the rest of the Bestow Elan collection on My Asho

Thursday, 3 May 2012

Is African Print African? Join the debate #African Fashion

image by Suzy Gershman 

The question of authenticity
Is it African? Is it Authentic? 

Much has been said about our much loved 'African fabric' so let us take a quick look at its history. The popular 'African' Wax-resist fabric goes by many names, Ankara, Woodin, Dutch wax print, Real English Wax, Veritable Java Print, Guaranteed Dutch Java, Veritable Dutch Hollandais. 

PRODUCTION:
A piece of fabric is printed with patterns of melted wax after which it is immersed in dye which penetrates the areas that are not covered with wax. After the wax has been removed, a negative image of the printed pattern remains on the cloth. Its is a form of batik really.

The Wax Print is popular Ivory Coast, Ghana, Senegal, Nigeria and many other West African countries.

BRIEF HISTORY: 

From Indonesia to the Netherlands to England to Africa

The textiles were first imported from Indonesia in the 19th century and the bold colours and patterns of the fabrics became popular in West Africa. There are various theories as to how it was then adopted by the Dutch who became major players in the manufacture and trade of the textile. Some believe that Dutch shippers on their way to Indonesia from Europe stopped at various African ports selling the fabric, and subsequently an African client base grew. It is also thought that the Indonesian market was not as receptive to the Dutch version of the fabric as it was considered inferior in quality due to the fact that the Dutch were unable to master the production process using mass production techniques (they were previously handmade) to produce a batik that was like that available locally to Indonesians. 

There is also a theory that African soldiers who fought for the Dutch in Indonesia who served between 1810 and 1862 took Indonesian batik back home with them as gifts for their families. Once a local demand had  been established the Dutch then capitalised on this and met local demand.

Trade in textiles manufactured in Asia  between the English, Dutch and French with African markets has a long history and did not begin with the wax print. It just happens to be the most popular. 

THE PRESENT
Many traditional forms of African textile design as well as the adopted and adapted are fast disappearing especially in terms of local production. In Nigeria, all but a few textile mills producing 'Ankara' still remain ushering in the disappearance of the skills, jobs and revenue for graphic and textile designers, factory workers, technicians, engineers and more.

Although the fabric had its birth in far away shores, as African countries gained independence in the 50's and 60's they built indigenous textile mills and started creating designs that better represented traditional African culture, where motifs and patterns and even colours of specific ethnic groups, tribes were incorporated into the design of the textile.

Dutch manufacturers have a long history in the production of this textile, which they produce purely for export and they are still believed to produce the best quality wax print with companies like Vlisco dominating the high-end of the marker. English wax is also very popular.

Nigeria once dominated the production of wax print in West Africa but is now are the mercy of Chinese imports and increasing instances of  'passing off' - where 'Ankara' which is Made in China, is tagged with logos of Nigerian textile mills often at lower prices than the originals. Interestingly, it is believed these 'fakes' are not produced using the same wax-resist printing processes and deemed inferior in quality with less durability. 

Ghana is home to several wax print manufacturers including Woodin, a subsidiary of Holland’s Vlisco and ATL which is a subsidiary of Manchester-based ABC textiles. Again it is interesting to note that even though these textiles are now manufactured in African countries, the companies that manufacture them are largely still European.

WHAT HAPPENS NOW
The African textile mills are closing down, the ones that remain are being bought up by everyone but the Africans yet Africans are by and large the sole consumers of this textile. The popular indigenous varieties are being faked, the industry is at risk of extinction. What can we do? What can you do? Should anything be done? Who loses out, who has something to gain? We are throwing this open for debate, suggestions, links, ideas. We would love to hear from you.

My Asho Facebook page
My Asho on twitter
hashtags- #AfricanFashion #buyAfrican

Monday, 30 April 2012

Is Anything African Anymore? Join the debate #Africanfashion

Marni for H&M
A couple of weeks ago, I went for a fancy dinner in Knightsbridge, London. On leaving the restaurant, I saw a modelesque Sloaney popping out for a cigarette. She was wearing a pair of trousers similar to a pair of Jewel by Lisa trousers I own, and so I rushed over and asked excitedly "OMG! where did you get your trousers?" and she said "H&M". I literally just walked away.

I don't know why I expected her to say Jewel by Lisa, or even mention an African designer. All I know is I was frustrated. Marni for H&M, Burberry. It's all over the high street, in Harrods, Harvey Nicks, it's popping up in a Primark near you. Wherever you look. It's everywhere. The African Print revolution has reached the masses of the Western world yet the biggest users of these prints, the designers who work with these prints on a daily basis are making next to nothing. Great job!

Following recent blog posts and tweets from the fabulous Terrence Sambo of OneNigerianBoy.com, I learned about Burberrys visit to the JBL studio in Lagos, Nigeria. They were just having a little look see it seems. Fair enough, free country - except Lagos isn't really the kind of place one just pops over to for a little look see. Anyways, they did. They had a look see, and then they made $1billion in profits. Interesting.

JBL - Cover of Genevieve Mag November 2009

Burberry SS12 Collection
I'm not an economist, but I do have a PhD, so I'm somewhat bright. Africa is a continent with tremendous potential (no sh*t Sherlock!). A friend who just visited Nigeria said to me "seems there are a lot more foreigners there than the last time I went". Smart business people are looking to Africa for business. So imagine how saddened I was to hear from several designers during a recent buying trip, that they were all seriously considering production outside of Africa. So not only do we have to deal with the fabric issue, production is rearing its ugly head also.

Now, the history of the fabric is a tale for another day (soon to follow). "African Print" fabric may not belong to Africa, but Africans do rock it like no other! The continent is by far the biggest market for "African" Print fabrics, but really ask, what is the African stake in this global industry?

Gone are the days of homegrown African textile mills (thanks China!), gone are the days of economically sensible production in Africa. All that is left is constant power failure, inconsistent government policies, lack of support, corruption, security issues and the list goes on. At My Asho we struggle with supply chain issues on a daily basis. It is a challenge.

So, nothing against Marni, nothing against Burberry (well, maybe a little something against Burberry), nothing against good old-fashioned capitalism. My question to you all is what is Africa going to do about this? Is anything African African anymore?

Join the debate:











Wednesday, 18 April 2012

Alicia Keys in Christie Brown

 Neckpiece-  Anita Quansah
  Leather Jacket- 
Tsemaye Binitie 

The gorgeous Alicia Keys graces the cover of Vibe Magazine’s 2nd Annual Global Issue and is featured in a beautifully styled spread dressed in some of Africa's very own design talents such as Tsemaye Binitie of NigeriaChristie Brown and Anita Quansah of Ghana. 

The shoot was styled by Laura Jones and Photography was by Jill Greenberg.


Leather Jacket - Tsemaye Binitie 
Fringe Necklace- Christie Brown 

 Neckpiece-  Anita Quansah
  Leather Jacket- 
Tsemaye Binitie 

Fringe Necklace- Christie Brown 

The spectacular Fringe Necklace by Christie Brown is available on My Asho.

Let us know what you think about the shoot.






Thursday, 29 December 2011

African Fashion Cannot Afford To Be Boxed Up!

We had a lovely interview with Belinda Otas, a freelance journalist with various publications including the BBC, CNN, New African, The Atlanta Post and more. Check out the interview below

2011 has seen African fashion gain prominence like never before, from Lagos to London to New York, African designers refuse to make a quiet entrance and the world is waking up to their presence. Dolapo Shobanjo is the co-founder of My Asho, a leading online retail outlet for African designs and designers. In our interview, she talks about why the industry cannot afford to be boxed up in one fabric!

Belinda: What is African fashion?
Dolapo: There is no simple definition of African fashion. There is a big misconception that it is defined by African prints or tribal themes, but that is not necessarily so. Heritage and culture will influence for sure, and it is great to see African designers using their continent for inspiration. However, I would say think of it the same way you think of French fashion and think Parisian chic or New York fashion with its trendy, Sex & the City vibe. African fashion has its own aesthetic which is typified by the African woman who is so diverse and hard to define. Strong and Amazonian yet submissive and respectful. African fashion captures your attention. It is bold, it is colourful, it is elegant, it is international, it is art and it is interesting.

Belinda: How would you describe the current state of the global African fashion industry and do you have any idea what is it worth in monetary terms?
Dolapo: The African fashion industry is worth billions of dollars potentially. I am very sure of it. Looking at it from a supply chain perspective, we have the capacity within Africa to grow and manufacture raw materials such as cotton, design and produce clothes, and distribute them. Within Africa alone we have massive distribution prospects, and when you factor in the international markets, that number just grows even larger.  Also with the huge drive for ethical fashion, we can offer a different model than China or India. We can offer Western designers production opportunities which create jobs within Africa. Look at SUNO New York – they produce out of Kenya using SOKO Kenya – a co-op involving local artisans. More initiatives like SOKO Kenya are what we need in Africa: driving global exports whilst creating fair employment for locals. If we get this right, I have no doubt that the industry could be worth billions in a short space of time.

Belinda: We seem more comfortable wearing traditional African fabrics now than in previous years, at least, that’s what the narrative insinuates in not so many words. Was there ever a time when people were ashamed to wear African designs or clothes made with African fabrics?
Dolapo: I’m sure there are some people who were and still are ashamed to wear African prints or African designs. I can’t really speak for them. I don’t know what their reasons are – maybe they’re embarrassed and don’t want people to connect them toAfrica. I don’t know.  What I do know is what I saw growing up. People would comfortably wear traditional outfits, made from beautiful, rich African fabrics and not even just the prints which are so popular now. In London I’d go shopping with my mother, and she’d get stopped on the street so many times and complimented on her outfits. I don’t know why people would be ashamed. Wear it with pride I say!

Check out the rest of the interview here...

Tuesday, 20 December 2011

"Vintage Love" - The Spring/Summer 2012 Collection from Jewel by Lisa


The Jewel by Lisa SS12 collection revisits the past, celebrating fashion from the Nigerian 50s and 60s. It celebrates traditional heritage and culture, but with a twist - embodying key pieces whilst reworking and reinterpreting traditional Nigerian menswear such as the Agbada, the Safari suits, and the Buba & Sokoto into designer Lisa’s idea of a modern womenswear collection. Western and traditional style meet and become one, no labels, no limits, just pure unadultrated style.





And check out E! News anchor Catt Sadler in this dress from the collection

Pieces from the Vintage Collection will be available to purchase from My Asho.com in early 2012.